Luxor/Karnak/Thebes
Luxor has often been called the worlds greatest
open air museum, as indeed it is and much more. The number and
preservation of the monuments in the Luxor area are unparalleled
anywhere else in the world that know of. Actually, what most
people think of as Luxor is really three different areas, consisting
of the City of Luxor on the East side of the Nile, the town
of Karnak just north of Luxor and Thebes, which the ancient
Egyptians called Waset, which is on the west side of the Nile
across from Luxor.
Right - The west bank across
the Nile from Luxor.
To say that the Luxor area is a major attraction for tourists
in Egypt would be an understatement. It has been a tourist destination
since the beginning of tourism. Even in ancient times, during
the late Dynasties of the Greek and Roman periods, the area
drew tourists, and has been doing so ever since. Today Luxor
is well equipped to accommodate tourists with many hotels and
in general a tourist industry ready and willing to serve the
people from many countries that descend on this area of the
Nile Valley every year.
 Within
Luxor, there are only three main streets consisting of Sharia
al-Mahatta, Sharia al-Karnak and the Corniched, next to the
Nile. The street in front of the train station is Sharia al-Mahatta
and runs away from the Nile where it meets the gardens of Luxor
Temple. Sharia al-Karnak, or Maabad al-Karnak which means Karnak
Temple Street runs along the Nile from Luxor Temple to Karnak
Temple. However, Sharia al-Karnak is known as Sharia al-Markaz
where it meets Sharia al-Mahatta street, and to the south around
the temple it is known as Sharia al-Lokanda. Along this street
one will find the colorful signs of restaurants and cafes, as
well as bazaars where the usual variety of Egyptian souvenirs
can be found. Of interest is the alabaster, which is plentiful
along the west bank and miled not far from here. Also look for
the clay pots used by the locals for cooking, which are more
unusual.
Luxor at the Nile
Luxor today is a city of some 150,000 people and
is governed by special statues that allow it more autonomy then
other political areas of Egypt. One thing you might notice is
that various government and other buildings confirm to an 'ancient'
building code. Particularly, the National bank of Egypt (located
near the winter palace), the spa south of the police station,
and the railway station are all designed to appear as pharaonic
constructs. All of this occurred after the Egyptianization of
the modern town resulting mostly from the mania that resulted
from Howard Carter's discovery of the Tomb of Tutankhamun. As
one might think, the city has all the amenities tourists might
expect, including a variety of hotels, bars, nightclubs and
restaurants.
 In
Luxor proper on the East Bank, one of the first stops must be
the Temple of Luxor built by Amenophis III. Head south on Sharia
al-Karnak to reach the temple, which was connected to the Karnak
Temple via a long stone processional street called a dromos.
The dromos (Picture at right) was built by Nectanebo I, and
originally was lined on either side by sphinxes. In front of
the Luxor temple, the dromos is well preserved, and on the way
to the entrance one passes by a Roman chapel of burnt brick
dedicated to the god Serapis, which was built during the rule
of Hadrian. There is a path that leads to the Nile side of the
Temple where one enters the complex.
One of the Luxor Bazaars
After leaving Luxor, head back to Sharia al-Karnak
and go north towards Karnak. Down the road, near the police
station which is near the tomb is the oldest mosque in Luxor,
the El-Mekashkesh Mosque. It contains the remains of a 10th
century Islamic saint who rumor has it was a monk prior to converting
to Islam. The mosque is a popular pilgrimage destination. Here
also is the Franciscan Church and its schools, one for boys
and the other girls. Beyond this lies a great Coptic basilica.
At the Police station, head towards the Nile Corniche. Here,
opposite the Mina Palace Hotel you will find the Mummification
Museum, which has most anything you would ever want to know
about mummifications. From here, head north towards Karnak.
 About
halfway to Karnak, you will discover the Luxor Museum. (The image
at left is a Block Statue of Iamu Negh from the Luxor Museum).
It should certainly be visited if you plan a well rounded and
educated experience. While this is a small museum, most of the
relics are from the surrounding area and provide considerable
insight to the monuments you will visit.
From the Museum, head back to Sharia al-Karnak and continue north towards Karnak.
After crossing a small bridge one will begin to see the excavated
dromos off the road and running through a small village. A little
further on you will pass the ruins of the Temple of Mut where
another dromos leads to the gateway of the tenth pylon. The
road finally arrives at the domed tombs of two saints, Sidi
Ahmed and Sidi Ali, where a road leads past the Department of
Antiquities leads to the main Temple of Karnak entrance. This
road is built along a canal that once connected the Nile to
the Temple. There was a dock in ancient times, but now all that
is left is the quay and the raised dais. Just past that is a
red brick Roman dock and past that two paved ramps led to the
river bank. They are bordered by stone parapets, and were built
during the rule of Taharqa. Past these is the Chapel of Achoris,
which received the sacred boat of Amun when it was used in ceremonies.
 To
arrive at the entrance one follows the dromos with its crio-sphinxes.
They have the head of a Ram and the body of a lion and are symbolic
of the God Amun. Arriving at the temple, there is a statue of
Ramesses II with his son between his feet.
To the right is a structure that has red steps, a red front
colonnade and red brick walls. Inside there are pedestals. inscribed
with the names of Roman emperors, that once held their statues.
This was a Roman chapel dedicated to imperial worship. After
leaving the Temple complex on the left is the Franco-Egyptian
Center which has managed the temple complex since 1967. Down
on the shore of the Nile is the Centre National dl la Recherche
Scientifque, or CNRS, which houses the French and the Chicago
House, a project of the University of Chicago is near by.
After this, you will wish to take a boat trip over to the West
bank. This trip had a special meaning to the Egyptians, for
they were more crossing the way to the West and life, then to
a necropolis. The Valley of the Kings is as good as any to try
first, with tombs from the 18th and 19th Dynasties. Outside
the Valley of the Kings, the road leads past Antef, named for
the 11th Dynasty prices who were buried here. Some tombs can
still be seen as one heads towards the Temple of Seti I. Most
of what is left of Seti's Temple is the view. The court is entered
by the ruined gate of a pylon The court has what is left of
a palace on the south side. The road continues south passing
Dra-Abu el-Naga necropolis.
Sculptured Walls
The road eventually winds itself westward until
reaching the Valley of Asasif. These are 25th and 26th Dynasty
tombs. At the end of of the Valley of Asasif at the foot of
a cliff named Deir el-Bahri is a spectacular complex of temples.
The Temple of Mentuhetep I, Hatshepsut and Thotmose II here
must be seen. Much of the architecture here seems so very powerful
against the towering cliffs in the background. From here, the
road continues past the remains of the temples of Ramesses IV
and Thutmose III, eventually reaching the Necropolis of Sheikh
Abd el-Qurna. This 18th Dynasty necropolis sits amidst houses
where there are hundreds of holes. And below here, one comes
to the famous Ramesseum, built by Ramesses II, a huge complex
that took twenty years to complete.
As the road runs along past the remains of Thutmose IV, Merneptah,
Ay and Horemheb's Temples, it finally comes to the huge complex
known as Medinet Habu, which is another of Thebe's major attractions
and a must see sight. The gate has square towers and appears
almost oriental. Behind the complex is the workmen's village
called Deir el-Medina. Out in the fields near here is the Colossi
of Memnon, one of the major tourist attractions throughout time.
Southwest of Deir el-Medina is the Valley of the Queens, where
queens of the 18th and 19th Dynasties were buried.
From here, the road continues past the mudbrick remains of
the Amenhotep III's palace called Malkatta. There is a lake
to the east and at the other end of that, a small Roman temple
called Deir Shelwit and built at the end of the 1st century.
Luxor has a wonderful Sound and Light Show
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