Isna (Esna)
Isna is located about 33 miles south of Luxor.
The town's Greek name was Latopolis and here fish (lates) where
thought to embody the goddess Neith, who was sacred to the area.
Isna was increasingly important during the 18th dynasty due
to Egypt's developing relationship with the Sudan. There was
a route established between Isna and Derr. Later, the city slowly
declined until it received renewed interest during the 26th
Dynasty. Later, under the Greeks and Romans, it became the capital
of the Third Nome of Upper Egypt.
We also know of an Isna about a hundred years ago from Flaubert,
who later wrote Madame Bovary, was propositioned by a 'almeh'
while aboard his boat. He went with her to the house of Kuchuk
Hanem, where she danced (not so virtuously) the Bee. In other
words, wild times could be found here. Mohammed Ali had band
almeh (meaning learned women) from Cairo, so they had gathered
to make their living in Qena, Isna and Aswan.
But today, Isna is a somewhat sleepy if busy merchant and farming
town, with a weaving industry, on the west bank of the Nile
where the entertainment more resides in the Saturday animal
market. On the covered market street, one may purchase fabric,
or have the fabrics made into clothing. There are some fine
old houses about with fine brickwork and mashrbiyya screens.
There is also a barrage just outside of town which was built
in 1906. About 4 miles southwest of town is the Deir Manaos
Wa al-Shuhada (Monastery of the Three Thousand Six Hundred Martyrs),
who's 10th century church is said to be one of the most beautiful
in Upper Egypt. Perhaps this monastery is a lasting commemorative
to Emperor Decius (249-51 AD) who degreed that all Christians
would suffer death if they did not sacrifice to the pagan gods.
His cartouche was the last to be carved on the walls of the
Temple of Khnum in Isna.
But the main attraction is the Temple of Khnum, which lies
beneath the level of the houses in a pit. Most of the ruins
of around the Temple and the old city are yet to be explored
as they lay under these modern dwellings. This was not the first
temple here, for during the reign of Thutmose III, a temple
was built here that preceded it. There are blocks from an early
Christian church in the forecourt of the temple, foretelling
of a time when Isna was an important Christian center. Near
the Temple of Khnum on the stone quay along the corniche are
carved cartouches of Emperor Marcus Aurelius.
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